Breeder's Tips
This section is intended to provide alpaca breeders with a substantial
reference resource to assist them in the management of their alpaca
herd. The information presently populating the Breeders Tips area
of the website is excerpted from: The Alpaca Shepherd, by
Michael Safley. The topics covered in the material below
include: facilities, herd management, birthing and reproduction.
If you have a specific question that you would like answered relating
to the creation of facility or the care of your alpacas you can
ask the editor by clicking here. This section of the website will
be dynamically edited to keep current with requests for information
by members of the Ideal Alpaca Community
Alpaca Facilities
Pastures
Alpacas are an ideal small acreage livestock.
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You can comfortably stock between five and ten animals per acre.
This makes the alpaca perfect for people who have only a few acres
and who want the pleasure of a small herd and a valuable asset.
Alpacas are a ruminant which means they chew cud like a cow or
deer.
They survive well on different kinds of low protein hay or pasture
grass, providing it has a balanced mineral content.
Because alpacas evolved in harsh conditions, they utilize their
food more efficiently than other ruminants.
They cost about as much per month to feed as a dog.
Alpacas have traditionally been tended in open pastures with few
fences, no barns and natural water resources.
Alpacas eat about 2% of their body weight in feed per day.
Their diet should include 20 - 25% fiber and 10 to 12% protein.
Although they can survive very harsh conditions, alpacas do best
on good quality pasture and benefit from having access to hay.
There are a number of commercial alpaca pellets available, but
these are best thought of as supplying vitamins and minerals rather
than the bulk feed which is best obtained through grazing.
Care should be taken to eliminate poisonous plants from your pasture.
Gardens can contain a number of plants that are toxic to most livestock
(oleander, rhododendron, laburnum, etc.).
You should fence your pastures so that harmful plants do not overhang
into the alpaca areas.
Be careful not to feed prunings from your garden or yard that contains
clippings from toxic plants.
Local nurseries can provide good advice on poisonous plants or
you can check with your county extension agent and get a list of
hazardous plants.
One important rule to remember is that any change in your alpaca’s
diet should be gradual over a period of a couple of weeks. This
allows the microbes in the gut to have time to adjust to the change.
Barns
In South America alpacas are put in corrals at night for protection
from predators and to keep them from wandering away.
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In the United States most alpaca breeders construct open shelters
for their animals as opposed to closed barns.
Alpacas simply need to get out of the wind and have a dry place
to eat or lay down during a storm.
An ideal shelter allows the alpacas to come and go as they please.
Gravel (as opposed to cement) is the best flooring material.
The feed troughs should allow about 18" of lineal space, per alpaca,
to eat. This means that 12 alpacas would need about 18 feet of feed
troughs. The troughs should be built low to the ground: 18 inches
high is ideal.
The shelters should have side walls or closed ends to block the
wind. For cover I like to see about 12 to 16 feet of roof over their
heads from the back wall to the eaves.
A barn or shelter should serve several functions: 1) to provide
a loafing area for the alpacas, 2) to store hay, 3) to provide catch
pens for the alpacas and, 4) to provide an area to clip toenails,
give injections and shear the animals.
You will also want a small storage area or veterinary room.
The most useful barn will service a large number of pastures.
The smallest barn at Northwest Alpacas services four pastures and
the largest has eleven pastures feeding into the structure.
Barns can be octagon, round, square or rectangle in shape.
The most functional barn I have has a center corridor for hay storage
and animal workspace with pastures feeding in to covered spaces
on both sides.
Fencing
The most important thing about alpaca fencing is to provide safety
from predators. Any fence will confine alpacas; they do not challenge
fences.
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The important thing is to keep dogs, foxes and coyotes out of the
pasture.
A standard 2" x 4" woven wire farm fence, four feet high is adequate.
You may want to add a barbed or hot wire at the top.
"New Zealand” deer fence works well for alpacas. It can be purchased
in heights of 5 or 6 feet and is made of woven wire with smaller
predator proof construction at the bottom.
Nine to eleven wire electric fencing works well, but it is hard
on the neighbor's children.
When fencing your pasture the terrain is a consideration.
The woven wire fences work better on flat ground and the single
strand electric wires do better on steep or uneven terrain.
One tip that works well on all fences: lay a strand of barbed wire
on the ground, attached to the posts, on the outside perimeter of
the fence. This prevents predators from digging their way under
the fence.
The smallest alpaca farm needs at least 4 separate pastures.
One immutable law of alpacas is that the herd size will grow.
More and smaller pastures are preferable to fewer large pastures.
I have 38 separate pastures on 50 acres.
Several of these pastures can be divided into 2 pastures.
Plan ahead, lay out your pastures so they can be cross fenced,
you will want additional pastures as your herd grows.
Watering Systems
Alpacas need a constant source of water. There are two important
thing to consider when installing watering devices: 1) Location:
Are the troughs easy for the alpacas and you to reach?2) Maintenance:
I learned early on that I did not enjoy breaking ice in the water
trough during the winter or constantly cleaning up accumulated algae
during the hot summer months. I prefer automatic waterers that have
a thermostat that engages a heating element during freezing weather.I
also like small waterers that replenish themselves after each use.
This type of water trough will stay clean and the alpacas can't
climb in the trough on a hot day.Your local feed or farm store will
have a wide variety of water troughs.
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Gates
You can not have too many gates. When designing your barns, pastures
and gates think about the work flow and traffic patterns that will
occur as you make your way through the day. Once the facilities
are built they are difficult to alter, a little forethought can
save a lot of labor.Gates cost about the same per lineal foot as
the fence. You should make your gates as wide as possible. It is
hard to get equipment through narrow gates. I like sixteen foot
gates in the pasture and four to five foot gates inside the barn.Be
careful when you install your gates to avoid creating a crawl space
for predators.You may need to level the ground under the gate and
make it difficult for dogs to dig their way into the pasture.
Alpaca Husbandry
VACCINATIONS / INJECTIONS
I recommend alpaca breeders learn to give their own injections.
It is easy to do and saves a lot of money. Most animal medicines
and vaccinations are available at your local farm store or can be
obtained from your veterinarian.
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Dr. Paul Jones has one of the largest alpaca practices in the United
States. He began treating llamas in 1983, just as the first alpacas
began coming to the United States. Dr. Jones recommends the following
general vaccination schedule beginning at birth.
Day One: Dip navel with 7% tincture of Iodine.
BOSE: 1cc. per 25 pounds of body weight.
Vitamins A and D: 1cc. per 75 pounds of body weight.
Tetanus Antitoxin 1500 units.
30 Days Repeat BOSE if indicated. Repeat Vitamins A and D if indicated.
6 – 8 Weeks First dose of CDT (Clostridium vaccine). Repeat four
weeks later, then annually.
First dose of Leptospirosis vaccine, repeat 4 weeks later then
every 6 months.
VITAMINS and MINERALS
Alpaca need their vitamins, particularly Vitamin D. They come from
the highlands of South America where the sun always shines. Once
in foreign lands they often encounter an environment that has less
sunshine and more clouds. Without the sun alpacas do not receive
adequate levels of vitamin D, which they require for proper bone
growth. This lack of vitamin D can result in angular limb deformity.
In humans this condition is called rickets. Vitamin D is a must
for all growing alpacas. Vitamin D is almost always sold in combination
with Vitamin A.It is highly recommended that Vitamin D supplement
be given to cria and weanlings, either orally or by injection, born
in late summer or autumn to maximize correct bone growth over the
winter months. You should also dose cria who are weaned in the fall.
The standard dose for Vitamin D is 1000 international units (IU)
per pound of bodyweight. Refer to the label for the correct conversion
to milliliter per pound. This generally amounts to about 1 ml (cc)
per 75 pounds of body weight for young cria or weanlings.Vitamin
B Complex, iron and Selenium can also be helpful to the health of
alpacas. Dr. Jones recommends their use as follows: Vitamin B Complex,
for animals showing signs of polioencaphlomalacia or animals chronically
off their feed. Iron to be used for certain conditions of anemia.
Selenium supplementation is important if alpacas are grown in selenium
deficient areas.
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Vitamins A and D
I recommend all crias born in the present year and the previous
year be given Vitamins A and D injections in November of each year.
An injection will protect them for four months.As an alternative,
you can also dose the cria orally with AD & E gel which is available
at the feed store. I recommend monthly treatment during the winter
months.Vaccination programs vary by geography and should be based
on your veterinarian's advice. Alpacas must be monitored for parasites
and dewormed as necessary to avoid infestation by parasites. Each
geographic region of the country have differing degrees of risk
and different kinds of parasites. It is essential that you contact
a local veterinarian and obtain advice about parasite prevention
in your area.
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DEWORMING
There are a number of effective products that will rid alpacas of
internal parasites. These include Ivomectin, Ivomectin Plus, Valbazen
and Panacur. Diarrhea may be a sign of parasite problems. Some breeders
deworm on a regular schedule, others deworm when parasites are detected.
You should consult your veterinarian to determine what deworming
protocol is appropriate for your herd. I recommend that you monitor
fecal samples and avoid using an excessive amount of deworming medicine
on animals that are not affected. Parasites can become resistant
to deworming medicine over time and you are better off only treating
animals with unacceptable levels of parasites. One way to break
the parasite cycle is to rotate your pastures leaving them empty
for a minimum of 30 days at a time. Finally you must always pay
close attention to the poop piles. The scours, or diarrhea, are
often the result of worms. Alpaca can easily die from untreated
parasite infestations.
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Shearing
Alpacas are shorn once a year, usually in the spring. Shearing is
the biggest maintenance that alpaca require and it usually takes
about five to ten minutes per animal for an experienced shearer.If
you are purchasing your first alpacas, ask the sellers for the name
of a recommended shearer or, if you can, bring the alpacas back
to their property on shearing day.A small percentage of alpacas
are shorn standing up. The preferred method of shearing is to lay
the animals on their side and restrain their legs.One side of the
animal is shorn and it is then rolled over and shorn on the other
side.Some farms use a rope tether to restrain the animal and others
simply hold the alpaca for the shearer.Depending on the density
of the fleece alpacas will shear anywhere between 3 to 10 pounds
of fleece. Many high quality stud males will cut heavier weights.
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RECORD KEEPING
Once you determine the fleece traits that you are selecting for
they should be measured on a consistent basis. These measurements
will reveal the superior parents with an accuracy that will accelerate
the improvement of your entire herd. Every alpaca on your ranch
should be measured, at every shearing.The first four measurements
can be taken from fleece samples and recorded in a histogram. 1.
Fineness or average fiber diameter; 2. Standard deviation, or the
spread or deviation in the sample around the mean micron count;
3. Co-efficient of Variation (C of V), or the relationship of the
fiber diameter to the uniformity, expressed as a percentage, 4.
Staple length should be measured at the mid-side, and taken over
the same time period as measurements for the other alpacas being
compared. Remember there is a price premium for long stapled fleece.5.
Fleece weight, including the entire fleece on the animal. Skirt
the blanket and measure it separately from the fleece from the belly,
legs, and neck, then record both weights and the total.
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WHAT CAN YOU DO WITH THE FLEECE?
Alpaca fiber is highly prized for it soft feel (handle), warm thermal
properties, its durability and its variety of natural colors. It
is processed into high quality fashion garments such as suits, jackets,
skirts, and coats. Because of its natural warmth, it is also used
as quilt filling, and for socks and blankets. Sweaters knitted from
alpaca fleece are soft, light and warm. The international market
for alpaca product is enormous with demand always exceeding supply.
Commercial prices depend on quality with a premium paid for finer
micron fiber. To market your fleece you can join the Alpaca Owners
and Breeders Association's (AOBA) fiber co-op: Alpaca Fiber Cooperative
of North America (AFCNA). The co-op is owned by alpaca breeders.
A few alpaca owners hand spin their fiber or sell it to home spinners.
This approach can realize a considerably higher price per pound
than bulk sales to textile manufacturers.Others have their fiber
spun into yarn at cottage industry mills and then either sell the
yarn or hand knit it into sweaters.Many alpaca breeders have a small
on-site farm store. They buy their inventory from the fiber co-op,
local fiber artists or wholesale from South America. These stores
can be profitable and also help market their alpacas.
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IDENTIFICATION
Most, if not all, the alpacas in the United States are registered
with the Alpaca Registry Inc. (ARI). Each is identified by their
DNA. In addition alpaca breeders use numbered ear tags or micro
chips to identify their animals. The ear tags are issued in a series
of sequential numbers or can be marked individually with an indelible
pen. Microchips can be read with a hand held device and will exhibit
either a nine or ten digit number.
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EAR TAGS
Ear tags can be purchased from your local farm store.The
tags are installed in one of the two ears, depending on sex. The
male tag is often placed in the left ear and the female tag in the
right. Some breeders use one color tag for males and a different
one for females. Ear tags create an easy visual system of identification.
In the beginning alpaca breeders will know each of the animals in
their herd, but as the cria are weaned and shorn, identification
mistakes can be made and records of breeding and health care can
be confused. Ear tags help the shepherd keep the herd straight.
MICRO CHIPS
Micro chips are injected under the skin, at the base of the ear,
or in front of the rear pin bones just below the backbone. There
are several types of chips. Each requires a different frequency
reader. Some readers read multiple chip types.Chips are more difficult
to read than ear tags because an alpaca needs to be held or standing
still for the chip to be read.Ear tags can be read standing in the
field while the alpacas are grazing.Many farms use both means of
identification in each of their alpaca.
TOE NAIL TRIMMING
Alpacas have soft padded feet with two toes on each foot and a soft
leathery pad. The nail on each toe should be level with the pad.
Overgrown, long nails will twist and can cause lameness.Toenails
should be clipped about every six months.Animals grazing on soft
ground will need trimming more frequently than those grazing on
hard ground.Nails can be trimmed using a pair of short-nosed garden
clippers.
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BODY CONDITION, WEIGHING AND SCORING
The assessment of nutritional levels in alpacas, including
cria, is best achieved by weighing them but you can also assess
them by implementing a body scoring system. Visual assessment is
misleading as the fleece can easily hide their true condition, so
a ‘hands-on’ method or a scale will give the best results.Body screening
involves placing your fingers on the center of the back and feeling
the degree of muscle that is present. Ideal condition should reveal
a firm, slightly convex body shape. A bulging muscle or knot would
indicate an overweight animal, whereas a concave shape indicates
underweight condition. Most breeders record the score on a relative
scale; say 1 to 10 or 1 to 5. A score of 5 on a scale of 1 to 10
would be perfect, with 10 being obese and 1 near death.
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CATCHING AND RESTRAINING
Alpacas always need to be handled. They must be moved about while
doing routine husbandry, transport, and shearing. Catching and holding
is a simple process if approached in a calm manner. Never try to
catch an alpaca running free in a pasture. Apart from being very
difficult, it only leads to stirring up your alpaca, frustrating
you and risking injury to you and your alpaca.Always move your alpacas
into a catch pen or a confined area before handling them.Once the
alpaca is in the pen, move quietly but decisively to place your
arm around their neck, and then place a knee in front of the chest
to stop the animal from moving forward.Most alpacas will cooperate
if you are firm without being rough.Once you have a firm hold on
the alpaca, vaccinations, toenail trimming, etc., can be performed
by a second person.You need to learn to work as a team - holder,
assistant and alpaca.
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LEG RESTRAINTS
A set of leg restraints can be useful, particularly for shearing.
You should get instructions, on how to use leg restraints, from
an experienced handler before using them for the first time. You
can purchase leg restraints from catalogs that specialize in llama
and alpaca equipment.
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CHUKKERING
Chukkering is a simple restraining system that immobilizes an alpaca.
It is common in South America where alpacas are transported in open
trucks. Once chukkered, alpaca husbandry and veterinary procedures
(giving injections, dentistry, treating sore eyes, etc.) are easy
to administer. To chukker an alpaca put it in the “kush” position,
use a broad soft rope, about a yard long, pass the rope under the
belly and secure the loop firmly on the alpaca’s back with a quick
release knot. The hind legs can then be lifted and placed between
the rope and the belly and secure the loop firmly on the alpaca's
back with a quick release knot. The hind legs can then be lifted
and placed between the rope and the belly. Make sure the rope is
placed inside the stifles. You may need to tighten the rope once
the legs are restrained. The alpaca is held in the ‘kush’ position
until the rope is released.
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HALTER TRAINING
Halter trained alpacas are generally quieter when handled and easier
to relocate over short distances. It is particularly important that
stud males be halter trained. All alpacas entered in shows must
be halter trained. There are numerous methods of training alpacas,
but firm and gentle persistence is the most important rule. Alpacas
can begin to be haltered from a few weeks old, and alpacas can be
successfully trained as adults. Most require only a small number
of lessons. I find that alpacas are easiest to train after they
are weaned.The Alpaca Owners and Breeders Association shows often
have workshops that offer practical courses covering training and
handling alpacas.There are a number of different halter designs.
I like halters that crisscross under the chin. This type of halter
adjusts to the size of an alpaca's head.The most important feature
of a halter is that it fits firmly and comfortably. An ill-fitting
halter will slip down the muzzle and restrict the alpaca's ability
to breathe. This causes a snorting sound and the restricted airflow
panics the alpaca.Never leave a halter on an unattended alpaca in
the pasture.Always detach the lead rope from the halter when an
alpaca is being transported.
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TRANSPORTING
Alpacas are very easily transported in a wide variety of vehicles
and trailers. Most alpacas will sit in the ‘kush’ position as soon
as the vehicle starts to move, and experienced travelers, often
‘kush’ as soon as they enter the trailer or van. Alpacas should
not be haltered or tied with a short lead in the standing position
for transport. Chukkering for transport may be an option, but is
generally considered unnecessary. Fresh hay in the bottom of the
trailer can make it more enticing for the alpacas to load, as well
as providing some cushioning from rough roads.Alpacas can be transported
in the back of a station wagon, van or by trailer. I prefer a cargo
van when transporting eight or less alpacas: vans are easy to back
and park. A horse trailer works well and alpaca transporters who
move large numbers of animals use thirty to forty foot goose-necked
trailers.When alpacas are moved into a confined space they are inclined
to continue to exert the same dominance over each other as if they
were still in a pasture and since they cannot move away from each
other, some initial squabbling may persist until the vehicle is
moving. An alpaca needs about six square feet of space to be comfortable.
A seven by twenty foot trailer will easily handle twenty to twenty-two
alpacas.If you are transporting your alpacas to a show you need
to be careful what bedding you put in the trailer. Hay that has
green heads or any seeds can make a mess of their fleece. If you
use no bedding and only provide rubber mats they can become sullied
with feces and urine. I like clean straw which is easy to pick off
upon arrival at the show. You may also want to consider giving show
animals a bit more room in the trailer than normal.States require
Certificates of Veterinary Inspection (CVI) and transport permits
for any livestock movement. Check with the State Department of Agriculture
for the destination state to see what they require before you move
your animals.
Managing Your Alpaca Breeding Herd
WEATHER
Birthing crias in the spring is easier. The winter’s cold has faded
and your female can deliver in a fresh clean pasture instead of
a cold dark barn. The female will have fresh grass to graze and
process into abundant milk. During the hot summer days, females
can be lethargic, lie around and inhibit the cria’s nursing. And,
no one enjoys being pregnant in the hottest part of the year. A
cria born on hot summer days can also have a tendency to dehydrate.Ideal
weather for birthing will vary from region to region but there are
a lot of benefits to timing your cria drop to the most favorable
local weather. By having the majority of your cria at the same time
of year you will be able to vaccinate, wean, mate, halter train
and shear the entire herd at regular intervals.
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MANAGING YOUR ALPACA INVENTORY
Alpacas must be moved from one pasture to another. If you have a
large herd you will be sorting them on a regular basis. But even
a small herd requires you to separate animals at weaning, move breeding
animals about and keep mom and her new baby in a separate pasture.
The following are some helpful tips for organizing your pastures.Males
(12 months and up) must be separated from breeding females. Adult
males will engage in violent battles if more than one is in the
same pen with females. These same males can be pastured together,
without females, where they will engage in the occasional fight,
but generally get along. Do not put small males with large males.
The larger ones can hurt the smaller ones. Be sure to trim the male’s
fighting teeth when they appear at between 3 and 4 years of age.Junior
males can be put together but again you must be careful that larger
males do not terrorize smaller males. I recommend that young (6
to 18 months) herdsire prospects be run with pregnant females. Again,
you can only put one of the novice males with the females at any
given time. This practice helps develop their confidence, presence
and testosterone level.Weanlings, both male and female, can be run
together until about 12 months of age. Then they should be separated.Geldings
can be run with the stud males so long as they are an equivalent
size. Males should be castrated around 24 months of age. If you
castrate them at too young an age they can develop arthritis, or
leg deformities, as they grow older.Pregnant females can be kept
with the herdsire male for about the first six months of their pregnancy.
The stud will not bother them if they are pregnant and the female
will 'spit off' the male if he attempts to mount her. He will not
persist.Once females are confirmed pregnant and well along in their
pregnancy they should be separated. If you pen mate they will most
likely be separated all along.When your female is within 60 days
of delivery I recommend you move her to a separate pasture where
it is easy to observe her behavior. Be sure she has a companion
animal with her, hopefully another pregnant female.
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PREPARATION FOR BREEDING
Females should be washed and trimmed around their vulva prior to
breeding. This will reduce the risk of infection and the male’s
penis being entangled in their backside fiber. It is also ideal
if you can birth your cria after shearing. Some people say you may
want to avoid shearing just before birthing but I have never had
problems shearing pregnant females, especially if they are calm.
I shear my pregnant females in June just before the heat begins
in our part of the world. I believe that heat stress is more dangerous
to the pregnant female than the 15 to 20 minutes of shearing stress.Juvenile
females can have a persistent hymen (10% + or -). Be sure to do
a pre-breeding check of the vagina. Either you (once you are trained
by a competent person) or your veterinarian should check maiden
females by inserting a gloved and lubricated finger into their vagina
and gently probing to discover whether the hymen is retained or
open. If a persistent hymen is present it can be punctured or stretched
with gentle pressure. This will allow the male problem free entry
and help insure a successful mating.
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ANATOMY AND CONCEPTION
Conception is critical if an alpaca breeder expects to make a profit
in the alpaca business. There is little money to be made from fallow
females. Every alpaca breeder needs to understand in detail the
process of alpaca reproduction.
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BREEDING MALES
Males become sexually mature much later than females. The exact
age that males begin manufacturing sperm has not been determined.
In practical terms males begin settling females at about two and
a half years of age. Some begin a little earlier, some a little
later. My experience is that once a male changes his milk teeth
he will breed and settle females.Males have a fibro-elastic penis
which is adhered to the lining of the sheath at birth. These adhesions
must break down before the penis will extend during mating. Once
a male reaches puberty (10-14 months) the adhesions begin breaking
down over time until he can fully extend his penis and penetrate
the female during copulation.Alpaca males are drip ejaculators and
it takes about twenty minutes for them to deposit 2 ml of semen
in the female’s uterus. The male’s penis penetrates the female’s
cervix during mating.Small testicles and ovaries are associated
with infertility in other species. A mature alpaca male should have
a total scrotal circumference of 1.57 inches (4cm). Size alone does
not guarantee fertility and animals with large testicles can have
other problems such as cysts or poorly formed epididymis.
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FEMALES
Females become sexually mature at between 10 to 18 months with most
females being large enough to breed (2/3 of mature weight or 90
to 125 pounds) at 12 to 14 months. Female alpacas do not come into
heat. Once they mature they are receptive to the male until they
are settled and become non-receptive. Alpacas are induced ovulators,
which mean that copulation triggers ovulation.The female reproductive
tract begins at the vagina which is 5.95 inches (15 cm) long and
1.57 inches (4 cm) wide and leads to the cervix, an area of muscular
tissue that ends at the uterus. The uterus has two horns which lead
to the fallopian tubes that transport the egg from the ovaries to
the uterus.Most pregnancies occur in the left horn which is larger.
Eggs that are fertilized in the right horn are often absorbed. Twin
pregnancies rarely survive. The gestation period for alpacas is
generally from 315 to 370 days. This is a much wider variable than
for most species. The time of year can affect the gestation period
with longer pregnancies occurring after spring matings.The female’s
cycle revolves around a follicular wave which has three, four day
stages: 1) growing, 2) maturing, and 3) regressing. A mature follicle
will measure .276 inches (7mm) to .472 inches (12 mm). If a female
is bred while her follicle is mature, ovulation will most likely
occur. Ovulation is triggered by a combination of orgling (the sound
a male makes during mating) and penile penetration. The combination
of the orgle (you may want to select for loud males, smile!) and
the penetration triggers a luteinizing hormone (LH) surge which
lasts for up to four hours. Ovulation begins between 24 to 36 hours
later if a mature ovary is present.A small percentage of females
may fail to ovulate after mating due to a lack of LH. Females in
the regressive stage of follicular development may develop a luteinized
follicle. In this condition the female will refuse the male for
ten days after ovulation and then become receptive from 11 to 14
days after copulation.
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REPRODUCTIVE PROBLEMS IN FEMALES
The infertility problems discussed here range from simple
management issues to complex health or genetic conditions. If your
female is not getting pregnant after repeated breedings I recommend
that you have a veterinarian familiar with camelid reproduction
do a full reproductive workup. This process often leads to a diagnosis,
and a successful pregnancy. There are a number of causes for alpaca
reproduction problems. Absolute infertility is rare.
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INFERTILITY AND ANATOMICAL PROBLEMS
Possible causes: Poor body condition – underweight females: those
who weigh less than 85 pounds are not likely to cycle. Maiden females
that are simply “not ready”. These females could be anywhere from
twelve to twenty months old. Their ovaries may be late in maturing.
I have had females fail to conceive for up to twenty-four months
and then become pregnant.Heavily lactating females may not able
be to maintain the body condition necessary to conceive, especially
if they are older. Females over the age of twelve will often fail
to get pregnant until they wean their cria.Persistent hymen – which
makes it difficult for the male to penetrate. You may notice a blood
stained discharge from the female after mating. The hymen is easily
broken down by you or a veterinarian with a gloved and lubricated
index finger. Hermaphrodite (Female carrying the male ‘Y’ chromosome).
This is very rare. These females are usually more aggressive and
have a small vulva which protrudes at its lower edge.Segmental aplasia:
Sections of the reproductive tract are missing. (Rare)Hypoplastic
ovaries – failure to cycle and mate. Estrogen has a role in the
closure of long bone growth plates, females with hypoplastic ovaries
often appear taller and have thicker facial features than normal
females as they reach maturity. (Rare)
ACQUIRED REPRODUCTIVE PROBLEMS
These problems can result from bacteria being transported during
the initial breeding or be the result of a problem at birthing.
Once an infection is diagnosed, antibiotics will usually clear the
condition. • Metritis (uterine infection) – usually detected as
a white or reddish pussy material under the tail. • Tears and scarring
from previous difficult birthing. • Tumors
HORMONAL/FUNCTIONAL PROBLEMS
Retained Corpus Luteum (C.L.) – The corpus luteum is the
remnants of the follicle that are left behind after ovulation that
produce progesterone to support a pregnancy. When this tissue persists
even though no pregnancy exists it is referred to as a retained
corpus luteum. If this condition is present the female will believe
she is pregnant and refuse the male.Failure to ovulate – Sometimes
follicles do not release an egg after mating. This may be the result
of failure to release the hormones that trigger ovulation, or it
may be that there was no follicle to ovulate.Cystic follicles –
These are abnormal follicles that do not ovulate in spite of all
the normal stimuli for ovulation.Insufficient progesterone can be
a possible cause of repeated abortions. This condition can be treated
with injections of progesterone.
PENETRATION
I realize that I am stating the obvious when I say that you must
be sure that the male penetrates the female. If the male interrupts
the breeding he has probably not penetrated. You can check by simply
feeling under the female to see that the penis is inserted in the
correct place.
STRESS
Stressed females are less likely to conceive. Let them rest a bit
after a long trip to the stud’s farm and make sure they are in good
body condition. Let the female become familiar with her surroundings
and her new mate and she will be happy to get pregnant.
HAND OR PEN MATING
Pen breeding is the most time consuming. If you only have a few
females to breed it is no big deal but if you have hundreds it can
take a lot of time. When hand or pen mating the male is introduced
to the female in a small pen (10’x 10’). The advantages to this
approach are: 1. It is easy to observe health, receptivity and success.
2. The dates of mating and conception are easy to document. 3. You
can easily determine that the male has penetrated the female.
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PASTURE MATING
This is the easiest method of mating. You can put a male with several
females at one time and he will mate those who are most receptive.
By adding and subtracting females from the pasture you can insure
that the male’s libido will stay strong. This is the least stressful
method of mating for you and your alpacas.The disadvantages include
the inability to pin point the exact date of conception. To determine
the delivery date you will need to use other means, such as ultrasound
testing. Using the results of an ultrasound together with the dates
that a female was put in and taken out of the pasture will create
an accurate delivery date.
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MOBILE MATING
This method involves either bringing the male to the female or visa
versa. Once the mating is performed the animal that was transported
for the mating is returned to their farm. The advantages of mobile
mating are: 1. The female and her cria are kept at their owner’s
farm while the cria is young. 2. The mating enjoys the same benefits
of hand or pen mating. 3. The female and her cria endure less stress
during a critical time. The requirements for a successful mobile
mating are: 1. The female must be at the correct point in her follicular
cycle, in other words she must be receptive to the male. 2. A teaser
male can be used to test the female’s receptivity one day before
the mobile mating. Do not use a teaser male any sooner than twenty-four
hours before the actual breeding because the female might ovulate
and become non-receptive thereby wasting your time and travel. 3.
The breeder receiving the mate who travels (usually the male) must
have an accessible, clean and secure place to consummate the breeding.
The respective responsibilities of the mobile mating parties are:
1. The owner of the female is responsible for establishing the pregnancy
confirmation. 2. The owner of the male may need to make their animal
available for more than one mating. Mobile matings with receptive
females result in a confirmed pregnancy after one mating, 65 - 70%
of the time. This success ratio is higher for females that have
just birthed a cria and a little lower for maiden females.
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CONFIRMING PREGNANCY
There are a number of ways to confirm a pregnancy: 1. The best external
sign of pregnancy is the female rejecting the male. This is usually
demonstrated as the female “spits off” the male. 2. Progesterone
assays are, at best, only an indication of ovulation and pregnancy.
3. By ultrasound. It is very important to have a program of periodic
testing to determine that the female is retaining her pregnancy.
You can use anyone of the tests above. I would check 2 times in
the first 60 days and every 60 days thereafter.
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“SPIT OFF”
When a female is presented to a male 7 days after breeding and she
“spits off” you can be fairly certain that she has ovulated and
is probably pregnant, but you need to keep testing her, at 14 and
28 days, until an ultrasound can be performed. When a previously
serviced female is presented to a male 14 days after the initial
mating and she rejects the male it is likely that she is pregnant.
“Body language” (ears back, kicking, avoidance of male and in some
cases actually spitting), indicates what is known as “spit off”,
but to be safe a pregnancy should be confirmed by ultrasound 30
days after conception and at regular 60 day intervals throughout
the pregnancy.
ULTRASOUND TESTING
Depending on the stage of pregnancy, the ultrasound probe may either
be used trans-abdominally on the flank near the mammary glands or
transrectally. Diagnosis by ultrasound creates a picture of the
fetus. This has two benefits: it leaves no doubt that there is a
pregnancy, and allows the veterinarian to check that the fetus is
alive and developing.Most ultrasound testing is done rectally. The
on farm facilities required to do a test includes a shed or an area
away from direct sunlight and with access to electricity. An animal
handler is required to assist the veterinarian. The results should
be recorded and many ultrasound machines include a printer that
produces a photo of the fetus. It is vital that all pregnancies
be monitored with “spit offs” every 6 to 8 weeks and if possible
a repeat ultrasound at 5-6 months and 7-8 months gestation. It is
always a great disappointment when your overdue female is found
to be “open”, without cria.
BALLOTTEMENT
In late pregnancy (around 10 months) the fetus may be felt externally
through the abdominal wall. This is easy to do and your veterinarian
can quickly train you to ballotte a cria.
MATING MANAGEMENT
The following mating protocol is considered an effective way to
ensure a high pregnancy rate. If you pasture mate, the male is in
control of mating frequency in the beginning.
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SUGGESTED BREEDING MANAGEMENT PLAN FOR EACH FEMALE
DAY 1 Mate receptive female once. DAY 7 You should re-expose
the female to the male or do progesterone level to decide if an
ovulation occurred at the last mating. Determining the progesterone
level requires a blood test; if you are mating a number of females
this can be burdensome. I recommend a simple spit test. Progesterone
tests often give false positives. DAY 14 Introduce the male and
observe the reaction. Pregnant females will vigorously reject male.
A non pregnant female will allow the male to mount her within as
little as little as 30 seconds, or after a few minutes. Re-breed
any receptive females (This now becomes two days further into the
average follicular cycle, and automatically deals with the problem
of undersized follicles.) DAY 28-36 Re-present the male or perform
rectal ultrasound. An ultrasound is the most efficient test at this
point because it avoids a false pregnancy which occurs when the
female has a retained corpus luteum. DAY 60 Do another ultrasound.
BEYOND DAY 60 Conduct “spit offs’ at 6 to 8 week intervals and repeat
an ultrasound at least twice during gestation. This plan assumes
male and females are kept apart except for mating and teasing. Please
note: If a female accepts a male more than three times at fourteen
day intervals after mating, then you should discuss the female with
your veterinarian.
RE-BREEDING
A female can be rebred at 14 and 21 days after birthing. I would
not rebreed a female any sooner because the female tends to loose
or re-absorb her embryo. You should let the female decide when she
wants to breed. She is the one who knows she is ready. Do not force
her.
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RECORD KEEPING
Good reproduction records are essential to your alpaca
business. These can be kept by hand or on your computer.At Northwest
Alpacas we have created a Studmaster™ mating program. These records
are kept on the website, www.Idealalpacas.com.
The program tracks breeding, conception, pregnancy and re-breeding
for our entire herd. At the end of the process it allows us to register
the cria with the Alpaca Registry Inc. (ARI) online with a simple
click of the mouse.We invite you to use our system at no charge.
All you need to do is go online, visit the site and establish your
personal member account. You can record and manage your entire herd
of breeding females; again, at no charge.The catch is we will make
solicitations for your breeding business. We would like you to consider
using a Studmaster™ male in your program. There is no obligation
and no charge for the mating manager services. Check, or click it
out!
Birthing Your Cria
PREPARING FOR BIRTH
Females should be separated from males at least two months
before birth and her last cria should be weaned at least five months
before birth. I prefer to have the pregnant females separated from
other females with young cria because another female’s cria may
well steal the precious colostrum before the newborn gets a chance
to suckle. I have my pregnant females where I can see them from
my house and office. Most alpaca breeders continually check the
expectant mother. They fret when the baby does not arrive on their
timetable. My dad always told me, “She will have it when she is
ready, not when you are ready.” That may sound pretty obvious but
many a breeder who did not keep track of the female’s pregnancy
status finally figures out, one month after the projected due date,
that the female is not pregnant. This can be an expensive experience.
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THE CLUES THAT A CRIA IS DUE
Every parent can remember the time leading up to his or her first
baby’s birth. A lot of you have heard of false labor and maybe a
few of you have taken a dry run to the hospital. That happens with
alpacas as well. I have often been convinced that a female would
deliver by early afternoon only to greet her cria into the world
ten days later.
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There are a few tell tale signs that can alert you to the blessed
event:
1. Mammary development, the female will often bag up a few days
prior to delivery.2. The vulva may lengthen and soften giving the
appearance of being engorged a few days prior to delivery.3. The
vulva can relax a day or two before delivery and even appear to
droop open.4. Labor is a good sign of an impending delivery. It
is probably brought on by the fetus releasing hormones through the
placenta. Alpaca breeders are lucky since almost all cria are born
during the daytime. This is most likely a survival trait passed
on from vicuña or guanacos that birth at high elevations in cold
weather. For them, warm daytime deliveries are essential. In any
case labor often starts in the morning.5. The loss of the cervical
plug. The plug’s appearance is like thick mucus and it may be expelled
to allow the passage of the cria. You might find evidence of this
in the dung pile. This indicator is less reliable than the others
because it may happen weeks before delivery.6. The fetus becomes
much more active prior to delivery and you may see a lot of kicking.
But do not put to much stock in the kicking because it often becomes
evident two months prior to delivery.
THE STAGES OF LABOR
STAGE ONE The female will begin with mild contractions. She
will often linger, straining over the dung pile and may lie down,
roll, stand up and then lay down again. You may also hear her softly
humming. The normal duration of this first stage is 1-6 hours. STAGE
TWO This is the shortest phase often lasting about thirty minutes
to an hour. Maidens may take longer. The contractions are closer
together. The water breaks at this stage. (If the water does not
break you can break it yourself by pricking a hole the water sac.)
The cria comes into the world head first with the front feet under
the chin (normal presentation). The female may take a break at this
point but once the head is presented the cria will most likely be
on the ground in thirty minutes.The cria will pass its shoulders
through the vulva and then hang for awhile. This allows any fluid
in the cria’s lungs to be drained. Do not short circuit this process
if the delivery is progressing on schedule.STAGE THREE The
placenta should come out during this phase, probably at about 4
to 6 hours after delivery. If the placenta comes part way out, do
not pull on it! Let the female expel it on her own. The mother may
graze a bit after delivery before she begins tending the baby. I
recommend that you leave them alone to bond during this phase. You
can apply Iodine to the umbilical cord and maybe move the mother
and cria to a separate pasture. Then observe them from a distance.
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WHEN TO CALL FOR HELP OR INTERVENE
1. When stage one labor goes beyond six hours;2. Stage
two goes beyond one hour.3. The cria gets stuck.4. The afterbirth
does not come out after eight to ten hours.
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STOCKING THE NURSERY
Here is a short list of items you should have on hand when a cria
is due.
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Betadine or Iodine Antiseptic
It is a good idea to have on hand some mild antiseptic for use on
the navel. (Clip extra long navels.) Dipping the navel with 7% Iodine
works well, or Chlorhexedine 1%. Avoid the older products such as
mercurochrome– they can be an irritant. Navel infections are not
common, but the umbilical area can act as a point of entry for bacteria.
Applying Iodine is an ounce of prevention that is worth a ton of
cure.
Thermometer
I use a digital model that beeps when it reaches a final temperature.
Any baby thermometer from your local drugstore will work.
Bottles
A kitten size (4 – 8 ounce) pet bottle for nursing crias is good
and a plastic baby bottle works well for older cria.
Nipples
Use soft pliable nipples for cria and regular human type baby bottle
(Flutter valve teats are best.) rubber nipples for older cria. You
may need to enlarge the nipple hole for older cria.
Stomach Tube or Feeding Tube
Don’t rely on your veterinarian to have one in his or her car!
He may have left it at his office being sterilized or he may have
donated it to the last farmer. Have your own, even if it is just
for the veterinarian to use. An 18 gauge tube is ideal. You will
also need a syringe for the feeding tube. You must learn how to
use a feeding tube before attempting to feed a cria with it. If
used improperly it will kill the cria.
Surgical Clamp
This is used on the umbilical cord if bleeding occurs. In a pinch
dental floss works well to tie off a bleeding umbilical cord.
Cria Coat
There are many commercially made warm cria blankets available. Be
sure the coat does not cover the tail of the cria, which is the
scent identification area for the mother.
Clean Towels
Towels always come in handy. You can use them to dry the cria,
wipe your hands or help you get a grip if you need to pull the baby.
Bubble Wrap
A great insulator for premature cria.
Glucose and whole milk
Glucose is a source of “instant energy” – it doesn’t need to be
digested. I use homogenized whole milk to feed cria that are not
nursing. Homogenized milk is free of bacteria and will provide the
essential nutrition and vitamins necessary for vigorous growth.
Electrolyte Solutions
For treating dehydration and diarrhea.
Petroleum Jelly
Used to soften the anus if the cria is straining.
Pet Enema
If the cria is constipated and the petroleum jelly has not worked,
you may need to use a pet enema or human baby enemas. The pet versions
are available from your local pet store. Avoid enemas high in phosphates.
Scales
The ability to weigh cria is a great way to in monitor health. If
you are concerned about whether a cria is getting adequate nutrition
you can weigh them daily. They should gain between 3 and 4 ounces
a day or 2 to 3 pounds a week.
Frozen Plasma (Llama or alpaca.)
If you don’t have any plasma, know where you can get it at short
notice. Plasma is used to augment the immune response in cria that
do not receive adequate protection from their mother’s colostrum
while nursing at birth.
Pen and Paper
Keep records
Veterinarian’s Office and Mobile Phone Numbers
Stock all of the above items together in a “Cria Care Kit” kept
in a specific location in your barn and have them readily available
to your birthing pasture.
PROBLEM BIRTHS
Alpaca births are relatively problem free. About 5% of births may
encounter problems, maybe less. But in any case if you are in the
alpaca business long enough you will need to assist a mother with
the birthing process.The first thing you need to learn is when you
are faced with a problem. Almost all delivery problems are the result
of the cria being mal-presented. This is called a dystocia. The
warning signs are:1. Stage one labor lasting more than four to six
hours. In a long labor the dam will often become fatigued, lie down
and give up. If the placenta becomes separated during this stage
of labor the baby will die and begin to decompose which will eventually
kill the mother. If a female discharges a foul smelling fluid and
exhibits signs of stomach pain she is in trouble. You will need
to call the veterinarian immediately.2. The water sac (amniotic
sac) appears from the vulva and is not followed within sixty minutes
by a body part. If the water sac breaks and the baby is not delivered
within sixty minutes; the loss of fluid can cause the baby to “stick”
in the womb, especially if it is a large baby.3. If you see the
wrong body parts. A normal cria presentation is nose and two front
feet. One leg, head only, back feet or one leg and head are all
signs that a cria is out of position.4. The cria’s head and front
feet come out and the progress stops for more than ten to fifteen
minutes. This can be the result of the shoulders being locked in
the birth canal.5. The female is till in labor at 6 pm (a little
later on long summer evenings). This is not always a problem but
a late labor should put you on alert.
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WHAT TO DO ABOUT A DYSTOCIA
The first thing you need to decide is whether you are going to solve
the problem or call the veterinarian. Many alpaca breeders are adept
at delivering cria who begin the process out of position. Others
call the veterinarian. If you want to learn how to solve your own
problems there are many neo-natal clinics offered around the country
each year. I recommend that you take a class. It will increase your
confidence, lower your stress level and it may save a very valuable
baby. Your decision may be made for you if the veterinarian is several
hours away. The most important thing to remember is, do not panic.
By staying calm and analyzing the situation you will do much better.
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CORRECTING DYSTOCIAS
Once you have analyzed the nature of the dystocia you will need
to correct the problem.
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Here are some tips for freeing the cria:
1. Wash your hands and use lots of lubricant.2. Always pull down.
This puts the curvature of the cria’s spine in harmony with the
female’s birth canal.3. Move the largest out of place part first.
The head should be positioned before you move the legs.4. To correct
most problems you will need to push the cria back into the female.
To do this you must wait until the female is not contracting. This
is most often necessary when you are correcting an elbow lock. Pushing
the cria back allows the limbs to extend.5. Once you have the head
in position and the legs correctly oriented you need to extend the
limbs by gently pulling in a downward motion.6. If the cria is correctly
positioned but stuck you can push it back into the female and rotate
it about forty-five degrees. This gives you a little more room in
the birth canal. 7. Make sure you have plenty of lubricant pumped
into the female’s uterus. Problem deliveries are often preceded
by a loss of fluids and natural lubricants. You can get a common
sterile lubricant from your local farm store.8. Once you have the
cria in the correct position with the limbs extended work with mom’s
contractions. Pull when she pushes, relax when she does, the cria
will come!
Here are some tips:
1. Do no harm. Take it easy, be gentle, and wash your hands
before entering the female.2. If you make no progress within fifteen
minutes you may want to call for help.3. Have the following examination
supplies on hand before you begin: a) Clean water in a basin or
bucket. b) Latex gloves or OB sleeves. (I don’t use gloves because
I want maximum sensitivity when my hand is in the female.) c) Soap
and disinfectant. d) Sterile lubricant. e) Tail wraps and clean
towels. 4. Have someone help you hold the female and keep her from
getting up or moving.5. Begin the exam by sliding your fingers into
the vulva. Your hand should be clean and lubricated. If you are
gentle and persistent you will be able to slide your hand and forearm
into the animal. Do not push during contractions. Do not force your
hand. If you cannot get your hand in, call for help. You need to
work with the dam. Pull don’t push when she contracts. The main
purpose of the exam is to determine whether the cria is in correct
position.6. To determine the position ask yourself, “Do I have a
head or tail?” “Is the cria right side up?” “Do I feel front or
back legs?” “Is the head back or forward?”To assist your diagnosis
form a mental picture of what you are feeling.
Here are some tips to help identify what you are assessing.
a) Front legs flex in the same direction above the toes
and the “elbow.” The back legs and toes flex one way and at the
elbow they flex the other way.b) Determine whether you have a head
or tail at the entrance to the vagina.(Remember, breech births,
tail first, are very rare.)c) To tell whether the cria is right
side up, feel from the nose to the eye sockets and ears. If the
nostrils, eye sockets and ears are on top or facing up the cria
is right side up.Remember your goal is to form a mental picture
of the cria’s position. (I like to keep my eyes closed during this
initial examination.) Without this picture of the cria’s position
you cannot make the necessary corrections.
There are eight common dystocias. Some are easy to correct
while others are more difficult.
1. One leg back or not fully extended. This is pretty common and
can be corrected by locating the second leg and gently pulling until
it extends. 2. Elbow lock, either one or the other. This happens
when the elbows fail to pass the pelvis area. You need to straighten
the leg so that the female can complete the birth. This involves
working first one leg then the other until they straighten. It sometimes
helps to rotate the cria a little to the right or left. Remember
to pull gently. If your hands slip use a towel to grip the cria’s
forearm. 3. One or both legs over the head. This often happens with
only one leg over. Sometimes the cria will deliver in this position
and sometimes you will need to reposition the leg. 4. The front
leg or legs back. This is a fairly common problem. You need to reposition
the leg to deliver the cria. Do not pull on the free leg or head.
This can cause damage. You need to fish the leg forward. Try to
find the knee joint and pull it gently forward. It often helps to
push the cria back while repositioning the leg. 5. A breech position
is very rare. I have only experienced this two times (one lived)
in twenty years. My rule is if you feel the tail first call the
veterinarian! 6. The neck back position is very difficult to correct.
I recommend that you call the veterinarian if you find the cria
in this position during your exam. I have had four cria present
themselves this way in twenty years and we saved two of them. 7.
Upside down position is very rare. I have never had this happen.
The problem here is that the curvature of the cria’s spine goes
in the opposite direction as the female’s birth canal. This is another
case for the veterinarian. Do not try to pull the cria upside down.
8. Uterine Torison is a different type of dystocia which involves
the uterus being twisted shut. To correct this position the uterus
must be unwound. This condition, while unusual, generally occurs
during the last two months of pregnancy. The mother will show her
discomfort by constantly rolling. The veterinarian will know how
to correct this problem.
The Cria is Born: What Do I Do Now?
Here is what you should expect from a normal cria.
1. Normal breathing, no wheezing or coughing. If they wheeze or
cough you may want to pick them up by the hind legs with the head
down to clear fluid from their lungs.2. Normal temperature of 99-101
degrees.3. A new cria will struggle to kush and roll in their attempts
to stand. This activity usually lasts about thirty minutes before
they are up on all fours.4. Repeated attempts to nurse. It usually
takes from one to four hours for a cria to figure it out. I would
not interfere with this process, cria and mom need to bond.5. Ears
upright6. Overall vigor.7. Legs that work but are not necessarily
perfect. Give the cria a little time before you begin assessing
their conformation.
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PREMATURE BIRTHS
The average cria will weigh about fourteen to twenty pounds. Low
birth weight can but does not necessarily indicate a premature cria.
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Other signs of prematurity are:
1. Floppy ears.2. No teeth are erupted from the front lower gum-line.3.
Lack of vigor.4. Low or high body temperature.5. Inability to stand,
6. The cria is down on their pasterns.The normal cria will be alert
and actively looking for mom’s udder. If the cria is getting milk
while nursing its tail will go up and it might have a milk moustache.
A normal cria will nurse for five minutes every two to three hours.
Cria alternate between sleeping and bouncing around the pasture.
Active cria are healthy cria.
DEALING WITH THE PREMATURE CRIA
There are several easy steps that you can take if your cria is born
premature.1. Stabilize their temperature. You can do this by drying
them off, putting on a cria coat (only in cold weather) and blowing
their fleece with a hair dryer. If you use a cria coat make sure
the dam has a chance to smell it before you put it on the cria.2.
Make sure you maintain the bond with the dam. Do not separate them
unless it is absolutely necessary.3. Encourage the cria to suckle
the female. Bottle feeding should be a last resort.The premature
cria may need a bottle to allow it to gain strength, stand and nurse.
It is best to milk the mother for the initial bottle so that the
cria receives its colostrum. They usually get going in short order.
Premature cria are at some risk and you should observe them closely
until they reach full vigor. Make sure their temperature is constant
at about 100 degrees.
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THE DAM’S BEHAVIOR AFTER THE BIRTH
Mothers react differently. Some do not like to nurse until they
have passed the afterbirth. Others are attentive immediately. Some
first time moms are nervous when the cria pokes around looking for
the udder. Some moms will spit at you when you approach the cria,
others are proud to have you inspect their baby. Be patient, alpacas
are exceptionally good mothers and almost always take loving care
of their cria.I have had a few mothers reject their cria or try
to kick them off when they nurse. You should check the mother to
see if her bag is engorged or if the teats are engorged. If she
is engorged she may be in pain and you will need to milk her out.If
she rejects the cria it may be that she has lost scent identification.
If you still have the placenta, rub that on her. If not my neighbor,
who is a sheep farmer, gave me a helpful hint: Right Guard. Spray
or roll a little Right Guard on the cria and put a little on the
mother’s nose. You might laugh but it sure beats bottle feeding.
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PASSIVE IMMUNITY
Some cria do not receive enough colostrum at birth and may need
a transfusion of plasma to obtain the necessary immunity to fight
disease in their early months. Newborn animals do not have “active”
immunity. Their little bodies have not been exposed to disease or
vaccines and have not commenced the process of antibody production.
They are not able to fight disease very well. Nature provides for
this by facilitating antibody transfer from mother to newborn. This
is called a “passive transfer” of immunity and occurs in most animals
via the colostrum (first milk) instead of through the placenta,
inutero.Colostrum is the thick creamy milk that the mother initially
produces. It is creamy and thick because of the high levels of antibodies
it contains. The newborn has a special bowel function that facilitates
absorption of these antibodies intact. This only lasts for a short
time – twelve to twenty-four hours after which any antibodies that
are made of protein will be broken down and digested normally. This
is why it is so important for the cria to nurse early in life. Every
hour after 6 hours from birth the ability to absorb colostrum is
cut in half.A cria deprived of colostrum will be susceptible to
infection. The relatively minor infections that often happen early
in a cria’s life can become life threatening. Diagnostic tests,
expressed as IGG levels can be done to evaluate antibody levels
in cria. These take time and in the meantime the cria are at risk.
The best protection a cria can have is an immediate dose of the
mother’s colostrum. If that does not happen I recommend a transfusion
of plasma by a veterinarian.Vaccinations can also provide a measure
of protection against disease. Consult with your veterinarian about
appropriate dosage. Each locality is a little different; be sure
to get your veterinarian’s advice.
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MONITORING PROGRESS AND RECOGNIZING DIFFERENCES
The best guides to your cria’s progress are its growth rate and
activity level. The weight of the cria sometimes declines slightly
(up to 10% of birth weight) over the first couple of days while
the mother is establishing her milk supply, but thereafter it should
increase. Look for growth rates of two to three pounds per week.
There may be weeks when this is not achieved, but any deficiency
is often made up in the following week. Expect your cria to achieve
an average gain of at least 2.5 pounds per week. A cria should double
its birth weight in the first month. You need good scales to monitor
growth rates. You also need to take your cria’s temperature – cria
should be between 99 and 101 degrees Fahrenheit, at 2 to 3 hours
after birth.Cria are alternately active and tired, they sleep a
lot, but your cria should run around and play with their buddies,
especially in the evening. They have their own personalities. They
like routine and respond well to people. Train your eye to their
habits and you will shepherd a lot of healthy cria.
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Hand Rearing Cria
The situations where hand rearing of a cria may be necessary include
the death of a mother or the unlikely event of the dam having no
milk. Partial hand rearing may be necessary with extremely weak
or premature cria or cria that are not gaining weight on a regular
basis.In the case of the weak cria, simply giving a little honey
and milk by bottle may provide the cria with enough energy to get
up and start feeding. A ratio of 2 teaspoons of honey to 4 ounces
of warm milk works well. Frail cria may be unable to suck on a bottle.
An eye dropper may be used, or gentle pressure on the bottle may
help but be careful not to overwhelm them with milk which will cause
a choking response. You may want to rub their throat as you urge
them to take the bottle. When the mother initially has a poor milk
supply, it is possible for milk production to be stimulated through
continual suckling, so don’t give up too easily. Cria that have
been unable to feed for up to four days can stimulate their mother
into full production. As the mother’s milk satisfies the cria and
its weight increases your bottles will be rejected.
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The hand reared cria has two main requirements:
1. Nutrition2. Immune support
Body Weight Monitoring is Essential When Hand Rearing
When bottle feeding a cria, total milk replacement will be needed
to meet all of their nutritional requirements. I prefer to use whole
milk, pasteurized, with Vitamin D added. Aim to provide the cria
with a daily fluid intake of 10% of its body weight. Feeding frequency
of should be about every three hours depending on the quantity taken
by the cria. Aim for six feedings per day for a young cria. For
a 15 pound cria: 10% of body weight = 1.5 pounds 6 feedings
= 4 ounces per feeding. 7am – 10am –1pm –4pm –7pm –10pmRemember
this is a minimum; if they will take more, give it to them.
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Equipment for Bottle Feeding
Be sure to heat the milk until it is warm, not hot. A microwave
works well or you can set the bottle of milk in hot water until
warm. Keep any hand reared cria with other alpacas. Do not pet or
fuss over the cria.1. Bottles – plastic or glass are easy to sterilize.
Pet nursing bottles work well for young cria.2. Nipples – Very young
animals may do better with very soft nipples on a pet nursing bottle.
Human baby bottles are perfect for older cria.
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Appropriate Alpaca Behavior
Alpacas should act like alpacas. Owners need to be careful
about the new born cria bonding with themselves instead of their
mother. As I have said before less is better. A good shepherd does
not pet, hug or hold the cria. This can lead to the cria imprinting
on the owner. If this happens the alpaca will treat the owner like
an alpaca when it is older. If that happens you can expect to be
spit on, bred and abused by a cria (male or female) who has been
mishandled and grown to maturity thinking that you are an alpaca!
This is known as berserk alpaca behavior.
Reproduced with permission from:
Alpaca
Breeding Farm: Northwest Alpacas: raising suri and
huacaya alpacas for sale, alpaca investment, and alpaca business
plans for alpaca breeders and owners worldwide. Find more useful
information at the Alpaca
Library.
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